Sri Lanka travel guide: Everything to know before you go

Best time to go

It depends on what you’re looking for. Thanks to its dual monsoon pattern, December-April tends to be best for beaches and wildlife excursions on the south and west of the island, while the dry months of May-September unlock access to the north and east.

Each side has its pick of stunning locations, and if you want to see both (without getting drenched) then September-October and April are the shoulder seasons for you, offering cooler temperatures, fewer tourists and excellent hiking opportunities. April coincides with the local new tear celebrations, so be wary of increased congestion on the transport networks.

Kandy is Sri Lanka’s beating heart: Holy town, hilltop enclave, and spiritual centre. Sri Lanka’s ancient customs and natural beauty come together here, with temples, shrines and palaces reflected in the glassy surface of the lake, hugged by hills as green as any you’ll ever see. Take the Main Line train from Colombo, wind your way up the mountains, and enjoy one of the world’s most celebrated railway rides. Kandy is where Sri Lanka’s kings resided, and it’s easy to see why; today, the entirety of Kandy is a Unesco World Heritage site.

Kandy

Crowded, frenetic, and choked up, Colombo used to be dismissed as merely the place from which to fly in and out. But Colombo has history, culture and excellent food.

If you’re keen on colonial history, the city boasts some of the best-preserved architecture from anywhere in the former British Empire. If not, there are plenty of temples, museums, and shrines besides. Hop on a tuk-tuk and explore an anthology of Sri Lanka’s past: the mind-melting stripes of Jami Ul-Alfar mosque; the statues of the Gangaramaya (Vihara) Buddhist temple; and St Anthony’s Shrine, a Catholic church illuminated at night. Gathering these cultural riches is the Colombo National Museum, the biggest in Sri Lanka and featuring over 100,000 artefacts.

Colombo

Whatever else you get up to in Sri Lanka, make absolutely sure that you take the Main Line train from Colombo to Kandy, and then from Kandy all the way to Ella. It takes eight hours or more, but this is one of those journeys that’s worth savouring. The train climbs inland from the coast, cutting through rock, farmland and jungle. You’ll travel across mountains veiled in mist, hillsides carpeted with tea leaves, and imposing brick-arched bridges from another era. If you fancy a cocktail and a party, stay on until at Ella; if you want a cup of tea and tranquillity, get off at Nuwara Eliyah.

Surfing can be tough, physically draining, and utterly, blissfully exhausting. Getting on a board is daunting, especially when surrounded by confident surfers strutting about, so find a school that’s right for you. Although Weligama is the surf hotspot, there are less crowded (and much prettier) places to learn all along the south coast, such as Mirissa, Ahangama, or Unawatuna, which are also great for beginners.

While you can surf just for the day, it takes some getting used to, so if you have the time check into a surf camp for a few days. Plunging into the sea every morning, feeling the pump and force of the waves, and collapsing on the sands in happy fatigue afterwards is a rewarding, nourishing, and vital experience – especially if you combine it with some yoga. Plus, there is no appetite quite like the one worked up on a surfboard, so when you finally sit down for your coconut curry it’ll taste even better.